I know that everybody right now is about quiet luxury, which is obviously an important topic, Olivier Rousteing of Balmain said backstage before a show that was effectively an explosion of roses in polka dots, patent leather, latex and jewels. “I think what people should be about today is the strength of identity. I don’t want to try to play a minimalism designer, because I’m not. I’m French. And you know, you can love Pompidou. But you can also love Versailles.” In Paris, it seems, a whole group of designers have had quite enough of the stealth wealth movement. Maximalism is staging its revolt. Afterall, this is the city that made a home for Netflix’s Emily, with all her over-the-top absurdity. Where else would it happen?
Basic crop tops and hipster jeans in muddy colors soon gave way to riots of mishmash stripes and plaids (the kind that look vintage, but then turn out to have been painstakingly pieced together, strip by strip), which in turn gave way to Marie Antoinette volumes covered in a floral storm of botanical decoupage. Some pieces even sprouted three-dimensional metal flowers made from upcycled cans, en tremblant. One way you can break free from the grip of “quiet luxury” is by taking a few risks with your fall wardrobe. By no means you have to become a devoted maximalist overnight, however, if you’re in desperate need of a break, opting for a few bolder fall trends is the right move for you.
Though there is also another way that isn’t just a rejection of minimalism or full-throated return maximalism. Call it monumentalism, or minimalism taken to maximum volume, simple lines, mega effects — and then consider Rick Owens. “I was just thinking that is such a good thing,” Mr. Owens said backstage, “I’m conscious that maybe I need to contribute more than doom,” he went on, referring to his own reputation as the prince of fashion darkness. “Romancing doom is a classic thing, but maybe that’s not the most responsible thing I could do.”
Don’t know where to start? Scroll down to see the best identified maximalist trends for fall/winter 2023. Whether you need to spice up your staples with a few statement accessories or are an anti-minimalist to your core, there’s something ahead for everyone. Happy Scrolling!!
(Pictures used in this post are for the reference only, all copyrights belong to the respective owners of the images. Image sources include but not limited to – google, IG, respective fashion magazines, fashion designers, fashion models and fashion brands)
Black Ice –
We should preface this by saying that we know black is typically a neutral hue, but with F/W 23 collections, that changed. That’s no more apparent than in the broad adoption of shiny patent leather textiles. Just look at how a timeless cropped trench coat felt edgier through the usage of shiny black leather at David Koma. Or how the classic-cut lady jacket came in the glossy material at Chanel. If designers didn’t use the textile to make “dated” items feel daring, they used them to draw attention to their more dramatic silhouettes.
Crayon Legs –
In simple terms, this trend is all about embracing colorful tights. We’ve seen hosiery, in general, bubble up since last fall, but with F/W 23 collections, designers took the underpinning to the next level by using them to play with color blocking. We saw that approach adeptly represented Atlein’s runway show as a slinky black gown was paired with pale blue tights. Similarly, neon green fishnets peeked out underneath a sheer black lace gown at Gucci.
Big Baubles –
Across the board, we saw big ‘ole baubles paired with more minimal separates to add something extra to the ensemble. For example, we saw an oversized beaded earring squarely placed against a taupe turtleneck peplum top at Brandon Maxwell. Similarly, at Rokh, a gray reworked blazer was styled with a silver chain and dome-shaped earrings. Then, there were the iterations of the jewelry trend that aired on the side of true maximalism, a pointed collar blouse was styled with a navy-blue hat and oversized spherical clip-on earrings at Balmain. Or the extra-large dome pendant necklace with matching earrings that were styled with a turtleneck and matching coat at Wooyoungmi.
Animal Kingdom –
Animal prints always manage to graze back into the zeitgeist; the F/W 23 collections were not immune to this pattern. Across the board, every type of critter was represented on the runway: leopard, zebra, python, cheetah, cow, and even surreal-looking animal prints. But it wasn’t solely their dominance that made them stand out, but how designers made them feel dangerous (in a good way). Simply look at how an ultra-sultry form-fitting knit dress at GCDS came in a yellow zebra print. Or how the classic suit feels less “safe” when fashioned from a python-looking red leather at Sportmax. Even the classic animal print coat felt fiercer, as it was given a fabulous upgrade by adapting the tailoring.
High Shine –
high shine pieces scream maximalism, but the iterations of this trend on the F/W 23 runways also managed to make them approachable. Case in point: Dries Van Noten’s collection, which styled black trousers with a gold-foil coat. Or Coach’s collection, which styled a black turtleneck underneath a silver-coated aviator jacket and paired with a matching maxi skirt and boots. If those two weren’t enough to make a serious case for metallics, then one only needs to look to the pretty draped dresses in both Blumarine and Simkhai’s collections as final proof. Metallics may be the antithesis of minimal, but you can’t say they’re not wearable.
Extra Embellishments –
Across F/W 23 collections, we saw seemingly classic items adorned with every type of embellishment‚ studs, rhinestones, beads, the works. It was as if designers had taken their bedazzlers and decided that it was high time they made the staples in the back of their closet shine again. At Balmain, that approach came in the form of taking a timeless circle skirt and giving it a more trend-forward feel with the addition of hundreds of rhinestones and matching embellished flats. At Brandon Maxwell, an impeccably tailored gray longline coat covered in beaded bouquets. While at Gucci, the term “drip” was given meaning with a black single-breasted coat with water-shaped droplet cutouts with beaded outlines.
Feather –
We saw this trend take flight in every form, including a white button-down fully covered in feathers at Valentino, along with a pastel-hued V-neck gown adorned with a single feather at Victoria Beckham. There also was a pale-yellow leather dress at Sportmax with a matching feather boa and furry sandals. But the most maximalist iteration of this trend could be found at Bottega Veneta, a fur coat in a swirly mint-green and brown hue was embellished with matching feathers.
And that’s the end:)
